Located in Almaty, Kazakhstan, artisan Ainash Kapanova’s ceramics studio is best described as a cabinet of curiosities. An iron gate, slightly open, invites us down a set of stairs to her studio—a place filled with constellations carved on voluminous ceramic forms, playful objects that inspire her imagination (from bronze rhinoceros beetles to Batman), and a global array of masks and paintings. All of this surrounds a studio table filled with tools of the trade such as shaping sponges, clay blocks, and carving knives. The space reminds us that magic happens through ceramics.
It is similar with every studio visit: we never know what will be behind the door when we visit an artisan’s workspace.
Visiting Kazakhstan is returning to a familiar place. Kazakhstan is the largest country by land mass in Central Asia with a deep connection to its nomadic history, and it boasts a variety of craft and cultural practices. During the Soviet Era (1922 to 1991), much of the Kazakh ethnic group’s heritage was suppressed and stripped away. But the resilience of the Kazakh people allowed them to hold onto their traditions. In recent years, there has been a resurgence in interest and connection with traditional craft across the country.
For nearly five years, the Center for Folklife and Cultural Heritage has worked in collaboration with the Union of Artisans Kazakhstan on several exchange projects alongside the Union’s founder and chair, Aizhan Bekkulova, and program manager, Alisha Shalakmetova. Together, we collaborate on dynamic programs that promote Kazakhstani culture—relating to all citizens of the country, regardless of ethnicity—through learning exchanges, trainings, and events. The Union also plays an instrumental role in guiding our work throughout the region, through projects like Promoting Women Artisans in Central Asia.
This year, with the Union, we launched the Kazakhstan Artisan Initiative, the first project of the Kazakhstan Cultural Heritage Fund. Our goal is to tell heritage craft stories, highlighting the intricacy of the work created by master artisans while placing it within the context of modern Kazakhstan and the world.
Launching this initiative, our research trip includes artisan studio visits in cities throughout southern Kazakhstan: Almaty, Turkistan, Shymkent, Shaul’der, and Taraz. The artisans we are meeting are highly skilled craftspeople, many of whom combine traditional techniques and motifs with modern designs and strategies. From felting and embroidery to jewelry making, woodworking, and ceramics, the artisans embody Kazakh resilience and creativity. We are grateful Bekkulova and Shalakmetova are with us every step of the way.
Cultivating a Place for the Cultural Arts
It is a challenge for art and artists to thrive, regardless of country or culture. Modern technology allows people to access cheaply made goods or escape into digital worlds altogether. In this global and hyperconnected society, how can we ensure the cultural arts have a voice and a place?
The answer lies with craftspeople and tradition bearers. As experts not only in their respective craft practices but also in their local and regional cultures, master artisans have the knowledge, skill, and passion to preserve their traditions, spread their legacy, and teach new generations of makers. In Kazakhstan, we are working with them to bring more awareness to the global stage about the richness and importance of traditional craft.
As we begin our journey, we experience Almaty’s lush greenery; trees and plants line every major and minor street in the city, making us feel as though we are walking through a park filled with quaint cafes, beautiful shops, and plenty of Soviet-era architecture. Almaty is a modern urban space infused with nature. Beyond the city, the surrounding Trans-Ili Alatau mountain range rises dramatically, its snowcapped peaks and forested slopes forming a majestic backdrop that anchors Almaty in both natural grandeur and cultural memory.
It is fitting that our first stop on the fifteen-day journey is to Zeinelkhan Mukhamedzhan’s workspace. A master embroiderer and member of the Union, Mukhamedzhan has worked with the Center through a variety of projects since 2022. While ascending two stories of stairs to enter his Soviet-era apartment, we are greeted by his daughter and fellow artist Botakoz Zeynelkhan. Sunshine comes through the large window at the end of a long, narrow space, landing perfectly on their intricate, layered embroideries.
Speaking about the importance of working together and how she’s learned from her father, Zeynelkhan says, “When I work together with my parents, I feel a special state within myself—lightness and inner freedom. Their presence gives me a sense of support, as if there are roots nearby from which I can draw strength. In such moments, I become more confident in myself and look at tasks and decisions with greater calm. For me, this is not just working together, but a space of support and trust where I feel that I can truly be myself. In this atmosphere, my creativity unfolds—new ideas, inspiration, and the desire to create emerge.”
We connect with them about the Kazakhstan Artisan Initiative, what kind of opportunities they are looking for to expand their practice, and what inspires their work. They are eager to share their process and learn from other artisans. Mukhamedzhan shows us exquisite embroideries on large canvases—some upward of three feet by six feet. Looking closely, we see the unique combination of multicolored threads, expertly hooked through the fabric backing, and at least three layers. Upon closer examination, we see that within one square half inch are dozens of small stitches. The hook that carries the thread from front to back has had to penetrate the surface at least a hundred times to create this effect.
As we say our goodbyes and prepare for our next stop, we are excited for what lies ahead. The coming days promise immersion in a vibrant community of craftspeople—from emerging talents just beginning their journey to master artisans who have honed their skills over decades. Each encounter will be a chance to learn, connect, and celebrate the enduring spirit of craft.
Connection across Kazakhstan
Almaty
Almaty, located in southeastern Kazakhstan, is the cultural capital of the country, known for its dynamic art scene and deep cultural roots. The artisans we meet are extensively connected to the community surrounding their craft, which extends to their immediate families and neighbors. Whether their studios are attached to their homes or in a building full of other artisans, there is no delineation between their passion for craft and their personal life. It is all intertwined: music, dancing, food, and family are parts of the ecosystem surrounding these artists. Everything is created with the senses—especially sight and touch—in mind.
So many more artists in Almaty opened their studio doors to our team. Click through the slideshow below to see the artists at work.
Right: Ardak Abishev shows the beauty and process behind one-and-a-half-foot-tall wedding jewelry.
Right: In Serik Rysbek’s studio on the river, silver jewelry pieces look like paintings.
Right: At the College of Construction and Crafts, students can learn how to make traditional musical instruments.
Turkistan and Shaul’der
In the south, Turkistan and Shaul’der are are known for their historical and cultural importance. Turkistan is considered by many a sacred city, rich in Islamic architecture and Sufi traditions. Though smaller and less documented, Shaul’der is a hidden gem for regional connections to craft through the Otrar Museum. In the dry, high heat of Turkistan, we experience that signature “southern hospitality” both day and night. Artisans roll out a warm welcome to the traditional craftsmanship and music of the region, coming together in the home of the talented musician Gauharbak Kunkhodjaev.
Right: We learn about ancient clay techniques with Abai Rysbekov.
Right: We find a love of small cast-metal figures with Sultan Abderaim.
Our experience in both cities is unforgettable, and a particularly transcendent moment blossoms when we walk up to Kunkhodjaev’s woodcarving studio. The power in the neighborhood has gone out and evening is quickly approaching, dimming our surroundings. We step through a narrow door into the compound, using our phones as flashlights, and are immediately greeted by the vibrant, staccato rhythm of accordion music. Kunkhodjaev is playing us into his studio. The only thing we can do is dance!
We can’t say we’ve been welcomed into an artisan’s home and studio with music before.
With the power out, we use our phones to illuminate the intricate wooden sculptures lining every wall—some towering over seven feet tall. Kunkhodjaev’s artworks take on a more intense depth as our lights reveal deeper shadows and brighter highlights across the surfaces of carved animals, expressive figures, and hidden spaces that only appear when we lean in close.
It is clear that each piece of wood speaks to him, offering its own inspiration for what it is meant to become. Behind him, the length of a branch transforms into a swan’s head, with a female figure nestled gracefully in the curve of its neck. A large natural knot in a tree becomes the perfect place to carve a secret garden and castle, tucked away like a dream.
As Kunkhodjaev plays more music, we are astonished to see him reaching into his sculptures and pulling out a variety of musical instruments we hadn’t even noticed moments before—as if the art itself has come alive to join the performance.
Shymkent and Taraz
Taraz is one of Kazakhstan’s oldest cities, and both Taraz and Shymkent are beacons of Silk Road history. Shymkent’s location in southern Kazakhstan has made it a key trade and cultural hub. Today, it is known for its vibrant local culture, steeped in theatrical traditions and lively festivals.
Right: Ikram Rafikov expertly melts silver into miniscule decorative balls.
Right: We sat in awe of the felting and weaving prowess of Madina Akhmetova.
Right: These vertical looms at Farida’s weaving center hold intricate carpets.
While visiting Shymkent’s Altyn Orda Art Gallery, we meet three generations of felt makers. Award-winning master weaver Bibazhar Simova has taught her family and additional apprentices needle-felting techniques, tassel making, and wool spinning.
Her previous students, Madina and Kulyash, now mentor a group of dedicated young women in these arts. They are the next generation who will transform local fibers into compositions of color, form, and textures.
Each time we say goodbye to an artisan or community to travel to our next destination, we revel in the talent, hospitality, and exciting ideas swirling around each visit. The energy is contagious! By the time we depart Kazakhstan (thirty site visits and five cities later!), our heads are full of possibility.
Taking the Next Step, Together
This research trip is just the beginning.
The Union has cultivated an extraordinary network of artisans across Kazakhstan, deeply connected not only by craft but by shared purpose and mutual support. Each studio visit is an intimate glimpse into the soul of an artisan’s practice. We are welcomed into homes and workshops with a deeply personal warmth—almost as if we had known these makers and their families for years. The Union-led roundtables, far from formal research sessions, unfold more like heartfelt gatherings among old friends.
Through these conversations, we witness the hopes, challenges, and aspirations that shape Kazakhstan’s craft community. What emerges is not just insight but a vivid portrait of a region where artisanal work is evolving, resilient, and alive.
“It is clear the artisans are becoming more active, more mature, and understand that changes depend on their own initiative,” Bekkulova notes.
With three years of project activities ahead, and so many talented artisans to collaborate with, the opportunities for building lasting relationships—both within Kazakhstan and across borders—feel limitless. As we sit at the airport awaiting our 2 a.m. flight, we are already discussing the next phase: a learning exchange program that will bring Kazakhstani artisans to Santa Fe, New Mexico, and Tucson, Arizona. Twelve artisans will attend the International Folk Art Market among other cultural institutions in Santa Fe, followed by a visit to Almaty’s sister city, Tucson, to meet American makers and explore shared traditions.
These experiences are vital for fostering collaboration and connection between artisans in Kazakhstan and the United States. From small studios in southern Kazakhstan to community events in the American Southwest, together, we are building bridges, sharing stories, and creating new opportunities for artisans across the map.
The best is yet to come.
Sloane Keller is the program manager of the Kazakhstan Artisan Initiative. Lesli Robertson is the initiative’s program activity and design facilitator.
The Kazakhstan Artisan Initiative is made possible with support from Chevron.
